Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan is a country in Central Asia. It is a hidden gem, hard to access and a little dusty, but worth every ounce of effort. Ashgabat is the capital and largest city in the country. Nearly 80% of the country is part of the Karakum Desert, replete with Silk Road secrets and half-buried ruins. Turkmenistan’s landscape is characterized by beautiful sandy deserts and oases. In the middle of the Karakum desert, at Darvaza, lies the one of a kind burning crater, also known as ‘the gate of hell.’ The traditional life of the Turkmen is that of nomadic shepherds, though some settled in towns centuries ago.

Highlights

Historical places

The Najmuddin Kubra Mausoleum (Konye-Urgench) dates from the first half of the 14th century - Turkmenistan
The Najmuddin Kubra Mausoleum (Konye-Urgench) dates from the first half of the 14th century

Dan Lundberg, (CC BY-SA 2.0)

The Nisa Fortress, a Parthian site near Ashgabat - Turkmenistan
The Nisa Fortress, a Parthian site near Ashgabat

David Stanley, (CC BY 2.0)

Natural sights

Darvaza Gas Crater Darvaza - Turkmenistan
Darvaza Gas Crater Darvaza

John Pavelka, (CC BY 2.0)

Yangykala Canyon - Turkmenistan
Yangykala Canyon

John Pavelka, (CC BY 2.0)

Ashgabat "The City of White Marble"

View of Ashgabat - Turkmenistan
View of Ashgabat

John Pavelka, (CC BY 2.0)

Independence Park, a statue of Saparmyrat Niyazov, Turkmenistan’s first president - Turkmenistan
Independence Park, a statue of Saparmyrat Niyazov, Turkmenistan’s first presiden

Dan Lundberg, (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Karakum desert

Karakum Desert - Turkmenistan
Karakum Desert

David Stanley, (CC BY 2.0)

An unmarked fortress ruins in the Karakum desert, central Turkmenistan - Turkmenistan
An unmarked fortress ruins in the Karakum desert, central Turkmenistan

Stefan Krasowski, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Archaeological sites

Ruins of Gonur Tepe - Turkmenistan
Ruins of Gonur Tepe

David Stanley, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Greater Kyz Kala Fortress Ancient Merv - Turkmenistan
Greater Kyz Kala Fortress Ancient Merv

John Pavelka, (CC BY 2.0)

When to go

The best time to visit Turkmenistan is from mid-March to end of May and from mid-September to November, when you can expect daytime temperatures of between 23-35°C. Winter months can be extremely cold. The worst season to visit Turkmenistan is summer. In July and August, expect temperatures to exceed 50°C.

Turkmen Horse Day: last Sunday in April, Turkmenistan’s national Akhal-Teke horse is commemorated with equestrian games, an International Fair, plenty of song and dance and a beauty contest for the horses, at the Equestrian Sports Complex near Ashgabat.

Practical information

Currency

Turkmen manat. The exchange rate approximately is 1 Euro is between 3,74 – 4,45 Turkmen manat. 1US Dollar is 3,5 Turkmen manat.

Language

Turkmen is the official language; Russian is still widely used within the cities and acts as the main means of inter-ethnic communication. Uzbek is also spoken by roughly 9% of the population

Visa

Citizens of every country in the world need a visa to enter Turkmenistan. Tourist visa to Turkmenistan is issued by the Immigration Service of the Republic of Turkmenistan based on application from a licensed travel agency in Turkmenistan. The approval period usually varies between 3 – 4 weeks. The Immigration Service reserves the right to deny a visa application without any explanations. It is reported that travellers applying for visa at Ashgabat airport have been detained in the transit area of the airport for several days due to missing documents.

Tourists may apply for a visa at any Turkmenistan embassy or consulate abroad and obtain it on arrival at Ashgabat airport, the Turkmen land border at Farab (Bukhara, Uzbekistan), Shavat (Khiva, Uzbekistan), Khojeyli (Nukus, Uzbekistan); Gaudan (Bajgiran/Mashhad, Iran), Bekdash (Aktau, Kazakhstan). Visa is not issued at the land borders of Serakhs (Iran), Serhetabat (Afghanistan) and Turkmenbashi (the Caspian Sea Port). Getting a Turkmenistan tourist visa is expensive. You need to make a booking for a tour through a tour company. Prices range from 120 to 250 USD per day, including guide, driver, accommodation, and food. Depending on recipients’ country of citizenship and urgency. The fee must be paid in cash in United States Dollars (USD) only at the embassy, at Ashgabat airport and land borders with the visa application. However, you can cut your costs considerably by sharing with other people or going on a group tour. Travelers on a Turkmen tourist visa need to be registered with OVIR, but this will be handled by the tour company who is arranging your visit. Travelers on a transit visa do not need to be registered with Migration Police (OVIR), unless they have a 7-day visa. In this case, the procedure is as follows: first, you need to stay at a hotel to have a valid address. Having settled in, the registrations stamp is obtained easily and for free at OVIR on Gogol Street in Ashgabat. They just need a copy of your passport (main page and visa of the country you are traveling to next) and a passport picture. A copy service can be found inside the building.

Turkmenistan Visa Application Requirements: two completed visa applications; valid passport and its copy. Passport must have at least six months validity period from the day of entrance to Turkmenistan; two passport size photos glued to the applications; visa fee; approved Turkmenistan Visa Support; stamped, self-addressed envelope, if the embassy agreed to serve by post. In the past, travellers managed to apply via the post, but nowadays e-mail is also a valid option. You can download and fill in the necessary forms from the Turkmen Migration website. Some embassies provide these forms for you when you come, others will not have them at hand, you will need to download and print them yourself in that case. Transit visa for Turkmenistan can be obtained without LOI. It is available at all Turkmenistan Consulates upon presentation of valid onward visas or relevant ticketing where applicable. No transit visa is available at any Turkmenistan border points including Ashgabat airport.

Turkmenistan can be a challenging country to navigate even for the most experienced of travellers. Visa regulation may vary, it is advised to visit this website for more information and the last updates.

ATM & credit card

ATMs are rare in Turkmenistan, and when you do come across one it is unlikely it will accept your foreign card. If it does accept your foreign card, it is unlikely that it has any money in it, and if it does have money in it, you will be charged the official exchange rate, thus losing a significant amount of your money. You should absolutely bring all your spending money in cash. In Ashgabat, you may find ATMs that accept international payment cards. VneshEkonomBank for example accepts Visa credit cards. However, most ATMs accept only local cards issued by Turkmen banks. Credit cards may be accepted in a few high-end hotels, but most stores and restaurants do not accept any cards. There are plenty of things you will pay for in USD. The black market is how all exchange is done in Turkmenistan. We will attempt to get the black-market rate for you, when possible, but the situation is not as easy and open as it was for many years in neighbouring Uzbekistan, with regular crack-downs and undercover police presence. You can find money exchange easiest on the bazaar. For risk-free exchange, ask your tour operator or hotel to do it for you. Watch out for scammers!

Opening times

The bazaars are the heart of every town in Turkmenistan. Bazaars are usually open from 8am to 8pm every day including Sundays. Large markets, like the Tolkuchka Bazaar in the outskirts of Ashgabat are open two or three mornings per week only. Bazaars outside Ashgabat will be closed at daylight hours during the cotton harvest season in autumn. Government shops are closed on Sundays and at lunch time. Bars and restaurants open from 8:00 to 23:00.

Time: GMT +5 hours.

 

Main airports

Ashgabat International Airport (it is located within the city limits of Ashgabat. The distance from the airport to the centre of Ashgabat is 15,6 kilometres. By car, it takes 19 minutes to get to the centre), Türkmenbaşy International Airport (the distance from the airport to the centre of Türkmenbaşy is 7 kilometres. By car, it takes 10 minutes to get to the centre), Mary International Airport (is the third largest international airport in Turkmenistan. The distance from the airport to the centre of Mary is 6 kilometres. By car, it takes 10 minutes to get to the centre), Türkmenabat International Airport (it is located approximately 20 km from the centre of the city. By car, it takes 20 minutes)

Public transport

If you are on a tourist visa, you will be traveling in a 4×4 with your tour guide while visiting Turkmenistan. For independent travellers without their own means of transport, this leaves the train or the (shared) taxi. Some buses also exist. All three are an inexpensive and relatively comfortable ways of getting around Turkmenistan. Ashgabat has more than 70 urban bus lines and 20 connecting the suburbs of the capital. Each stop is accompanied by a route plan and a timetable. There are two bus stations in the city: near the Tekinsky bazaar and the other the new inter-regional and international bus station located north of the city on the highway leading to Dashoguz. Turkmenistan is well served by buses. Between the major cities of Ashgabat, Dashgouz, Mary, Turkmenabashi, and Turkmenabat, transport is provided in modern and comfortable vehicles. Between other places, services are generally provided in older, less comfortable buses, or you can use private mini-vans or taxis. In all cases, road travel is quicker than rail travel. Public buses are the most common option within cities, and one-way trips cost approximately 0.30 TMT (0.10 USD). Major cities have multiple routes, though maps clearly displaying them can be hard to find.

Trains in Turkmenistan are good value for money and overnight trains are an excellent way to save up on accommodation for travellers on a budget. Turkmen trains are clean and modern, and present an opportunity to have long chats with locals. To buy tickets, go to the train station with your passport. Timetables of the trains might be available on the website of the Turkmen Railway company. You can also book tickets online here, but so far, no foreigner has succeeded. If you are on a tourist visa, your tour company will handle things for you of course. The major cities are all connected, but services are slow, so expect long travel times. Yet, if you have enough time, it can be a great way to take in the views of the countryside. On the main routes, you have the choice of soft or hard seating, with sleeping and dining cars also provided. All Turkmen trains are prepared to be sleeper trains, and if you have an overnight journey, you will get sheets, a pillow, and a blanket. Train travel, although possible with a guide, is less common than in neighbouring Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan.

Things to avoid

Drinking tap water and peeling fruits and vegetables before consumption, unpasteurized milk, or from consuming any raw steak

Entering a home or a holy site, and do not remove your shoes

Voice your opinion on political matters or speak negatively of the leadership, or take photos of people or government buildings without first asking permission

Expect to find many international products, be it food, clothing, or medicines. It is best to bring whatever you think you may need along with you

Smoke in public, as this is strictly prohibited

Turkmenistan is a conservative country, and it is important to dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites. Women should avoid shorts and revealing tops, and men should avoid wearing shorts

Food

Turkmenistan cuisine is like that of the rest of Central Asia. Turkmen seminomadic culture revolved around animal husbandry, especially sheep herding, and accordingly Turkmen cuisine is noted for its focus on meat, particularly mutton and lamb, as well, rice, sour milk products, cereals, vegetables, cheeses, and butter made from camel’s milk. The traditional Turkmenistan dishes are: “Shurpa” (made from mutton broth and complete with the addition of potatoes and tomatoes. The boiled vegetables are cooked together with fried onions, carrots, flour, bay leaves, salt, and pepper), “Shashlyk” (skewered pieces of meat, usually lamb, are grilled), “Chorek” (is Turkmen flat bread made in a “tamdyr,” a clay oven, which is considered the most sacred place in a home. According to tradition, one never steps on a piece of bread, and “Chorek” should not be cut or carelessly broken with one hand; rather it should be broken apart with both hands), “Gutap” (is a kind of flatbreads stuffed with beef or lamb and onions. They are cooked in a pan over the stove, and eaten with one’s hands),“Ichlekli” (juicy oven-baked shepherd’s pie traditionally cooked by burying in hot sand and embers), “Gazanlama” (dish of aromatic lamb, garlic and paprika).

Electricity and plug types

For Turkmenistan there are two associated plug types, types C and F. Plug type C is the plug which has two round pins and plug type F is the plug which has two round pins with two earth clips on the side. Turkmenistan operates on a 220V supply voltage and 50Hz.

Health and insurance

Compared to Western standards, healthcare in Turkmenistan is poor. Only basic and limited medical facilities are available. The situation becomes even more challenging as you move away from Ashgabat. Take any medication you may require with you. In every case, you should ensure that you travel with adequate health insurance since you may require evacuation to have a serious medical problem treated. Visitors must be properly vaccinated before they visit Turkmenistan. Scattered cases of Typhoid and Hepatitis A have been reported, along with instances of Polio outbreaks in the country’s interiors. Visitors must also carry along an emergency medical kit and all the necessary prescriptions to purchase medicines.

Some vaccines are recommended or required for Turkmenistan: typhoid, hepatitis A, polio, rabies, hepatitis B, influenza, COVID-19, pneumonia, meningitis, chickenpox, shingles, Tdap (tetanus, diphtheria, and pertussis) and measles, mumps, and rubella (MMR).

Other

Tipping is not expected in Turkmenistan, but it is appreciated

Turkmenistan is the only country in Central Asia where it is illegal to eat horse meat

Unfortunately, corruption is quite common in Turkmenistan, so be prepared to pay bribes to get things done

Turkmenistan is a country with high level of censorship and control over the information and communication. Internet access is limited and carefully monitored, and social media and news websites are blocked